10 avril 2008

"Don't mess with Brunello!"

Je viens de lire un joli papier d'Eric Azimov dans le New York Times du 3 avril, sous le titre "Fraudulent Brunello? Shocking!". Je vous en donne un extrait:

"Why would winemakers want to mess around with brunello? It depends on what you mean by brunello. Anybody who’s ever tasted through a large number of brunellos di Montalcino can’t help but notice the diversity of styles and flavors under this denomination. They range from wines that are clearly identifiable as sangiovese — pale ruby, fresh and acidic, lean and somewhat austere, with flavors of bitter cherry and smoke — to impossibly dark, dense wines that are plush, plummy and taste like chocolate.

Some of those wines develop that way because they are aged in small barrels of new French oak, the barriques that have played such an important role in making many distinctive Italian wines taste like they came from somewhere unidentifiable. That’s not illegal although I do find many of those wines hard to drink. But others have clearly been blended with other grapes like the aforesaid Bordeaux varietals or perhaps syrah. Some people may find these wines thoroughly enjoyable, but they are not brunellos di Montalcino.

For some time producers in Montalcino have been quietly floating proposals to relax the rules so that they would permit the blending of grapes. Regional pride is such that it is difficult to find any producer who will openly support such a change, but the rationale is clear. Producers have decided that the public prefers these plush, chocolate-tasting wines because they are more accessible than the older style, which is said to require more aging before it can be enjoyed.

Personally, I think it’s a shame."

Me too, Eric, me too. 

On le voit, tous les Américains ne sont pas d'affreux barbares amateurs de tisane de chêne!

Et puis, ça fait toujours plaisir de retrouver sous la plume d'un confrère - surtout étranger, surtout inconnu - des idées qui vous sont chères...




10:49 Écrit par Hervé Lalau dans Vins de tous pays | Lien permanent | Commentaires (1) | | | |

09 avril 2008

Johnson: l'avenir est au blanc

Pour Hugh Johnson, qui donnait ces jours-ci une conférence à Vérone, l'avenir du vin est au blanc, "plus adapté à une consommation dans des conditions climatiques plus chaudes, et aussi des modes de consommation plus décontractés."

Avec ce genre de sorties, le grand critique britannique fera sans doute plus d'heureux sur les bords du Rhin que sur ceux du Rhône ou du Douro...


Hugh Johnson ne dédaigne pas non plus le rosé (Photo Robin Matthews)

06:27 Écrit par Hervé Lalau dans Vins de tous pays | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0) | | | |