Chroniques Vineuses

Le Consorzio de Montalcino a décidé de faire déguster ses 2007 en primeur des primeurs à quelques primadonnas de la critique vineuse, ce qui, bien sûr, ne plaît pas au reste de la profession ("Pourquoi eux et pas moi?")

Toute ressemblance avec ce qui se passe aux Primeurs de Bordeaux n'est sans doute pas fortuite. Les mauvaises habitudes, c'est ce qu'il y a de plus contagieux dans le monde de la communication.

Je vous dirais bien que je m'en fous, vu que je ne pratique pas les Primeurs ("Pourquoi si tôt, et pas quand le vin peut vraiment être apprécié?").

Je vous en parle quand même, parce que mon copain Franco Ziliani s'est mobilisé sur la question, et que je veux le soutenir. Qui ne dit mot consent, dit le proverbe; et en l'occurrence, je ne consens pas.

J'ai aussi beaucoup apprécié le message de Fred Nijhuis, argumenté, mais non dénué de poésie, à propos ce cette nouvelle pièce de la Commedia del Arte...

Le théatre italien vu par Watteau

C'est en Anglais.

The Consorzio of Brunello di Montalcino decided to let some journalists taste the new vintage of Brunello before the others at the regular Anteprima tasting Benvenuto Brunello.
Many colleagues reacted. So far, not one applauding the Consorzio’s choice and making all kind of comparisons with, for instance, the Bordeaux Primeur Circus.
I like to add my personal feelings.
 
Some call it a clever PR-campaign, you can also call it a cheap cry for attention.
Some call it business, you can also call it selling your soul.
Some call it marketing, you can also call it prostitution.
 
I think it’s wrong to offer yourself to the bidders who promise the highest scores.
If a desperate heroine prostitute offers her body for the cheapest price, you can/should say ‘no’.
The ones really not to be trusted are the ones who take advantage of someone else’s weakness.
 
I like private lunches with the winemaker’s family at wineries, I detest lush dinners with PR-bunnies.
I do accept an occasional bottle of wine, I do not accept cases, luxury gifts or cheap primeurs.
I choose not to participate in the Bordeaux Primeur Circus and the exorbitant dinners at some of the Chateaux, because I don’t believe in ‘the new clothes of the emperor’.
I don’t believe in ‘all wine writers are equal, but some are more equal than others’.
 
I’m not a saint, but do have a conscience and can and do say ‘no’ often enough.
I’m an independent, honest, positive wine critic, not a employee or slave of any producers or Consorzio.
I don’t want to punish many hard working people in Montalcino by not tasting their wines.
I do think it’s important that these producers know, what we think of the new strategy of the Consorzio, which does/should act on their behalf.
 
 
I will go to Montalcino and taste Brunello 2007, but could support a strong ‘message’ to the Consorzio, like showing up at the Award ceremony, interrupting it by offering a statement and all leave the room silently, giving them something to think and talk about, while we do our job.
 
Ciao

Fred Nijhuis